Southland and Stewart Island
"of oysters, tuataras, bootleg hooch . . . and melodious wild music"
If you're the sort of person who likes to fossick around where other tourists rarely go, then go south to Invercargill and it's off-shore add-on, Stewart Island.
There are three reasons to go to Southland. Stewart Island is one. Another is oysters. The third is tuataras. (Or to be more grammatically correct (GC?), tuatara - Maori plurals do not add a final "s".) Unfortunately GC is not PC.
Bluff
Let's dispose of the oysters first. (Delicious thought). Bluff oysters are a gourmet's delight. Big, succulent, and blessed with a particularly fine flavour . . . well might anybody travel out of their way to find them in season, March to August. You can visit the oyster sheds and watch skilled shuckers at work deshelling the delicacy. And, naturally, buy then at the factory door of Fowlers Oysters, Ocean Beach Road, (03) 212 9792 for a fraction the price we poor deprived Aucklanders must pay.
If you're one of those folk who likes to go to extremes - then Bluff's a must, 27km from Invercargill, the point that most people consider to be the most southerly spot in NZ. Actually it's not, that honour belongs to Slope Point (see below), but it's a great deal easier to reach here and is generally enshrined in local lore - North Cape to the Bluff in NZ is like Land's End to John o' Groats in Britain.
There's a sign out
there which will tell you just how far from home you
really are. About as far as it's possible to get for
anyone from the Northern Hemisphere.
Invercargill
Most provincial museums are rather boring collections of Victoriana - and Invercargill has some of that too - but it also has something quite unique, a tuatarium.
Dinosaurs, contrary to popular opinion, are not all extinct. The tuatara is a living relative of the prehistoric monster which disappeared 100 million years ago. It's often referred to as a "living fossil". They grow to about 60cm long (24ins) and among their more fascinating features is a rudimentary third eye. It is found in the wild on a few very remote islands, having been nearly extincted by rats, and is one of the most protected species in the country. Unfortunately some two-legged rats are among the worst predators - rot them - smuggling the beasts overseas to a lucrative black market trade.
At the Southland Museum, near the gates of Queens Park in Gala St, a clan of about 50 tuatara live happily in a simulated natural environment. Worth seeing.
Something even older are sections of fossilised forest displayed opposite the entrance to the museum. The forest itself, is at Curio Bay and can be visited. (See below).
Take a walk in Queen's Park. A chance to escape life in the fast lane and enjoy the gardens and wild-life enclosures.
Stewart Island
One attraction of Stewart Island is that it's about as close to the South Pole as you are ever likely to reach - at that point you are close to Lat. 47 deg S. In the southern tip of South America - Patagonia, Tierra de Fuego, the Falklands etc - there are more southerly habitations, but you have to be a determined and intrepid adventurer to get there.
But apart from that, it's a place with its own special magic. It's one of those tranquil, unspoiled backwaters where time and life move at a more human pace than out here in the global funny-farm.
Back in 1909 an eminent botanist, Leonard Cockayne, described it as "an actual piece of the primeval world". And that primevality has been preserved for us to marvel at. Today over 90 per cent of the island is administered by the Department of Conservation which is charged with maintaining its pristine state. Much of the DoC conservation land has been incorporated into Rakiura National Park which was opened in March 2002.
Another botanist, the redoubtable Joseph Banks, who was on Capt. James Cook's explorations in the late18th century, described his foray into the primeval forest thus: "I was awed by the singing of the birds ashore. Their voices were the most melodious wild music I have ever heard, almost imitating small bells." On Stewart Island the wild music of the ancient forests can still be heard. And that alone should be sufficient reason fro you to go there, for nowhere else on this blighted planet will you connect so easily with your ancient heritage.
You can go bush-walking, fishing, hunting, scuba-diving . . . unhassled, unhurried, undisturbed.
It's probably the only place in New Zealand where you'll see kiwis - the real feathered sort - in their natural habitat. Bravo Adventure Cruises, Ph 219-2144, run an excursion that includes a twilight boat cruise to a remote location where, with a short walk in the bush and on the beach, you'll see our national symbol in its wild state. But they are only permitted to run every second night and there's a max of 14 pax per trip. You must book well in advance.
Or go with Phillip Smith, a DoC concessionaire who rarely misses seeing kiwi on his night-time tours. Ph 03-219-1144.
If you're into walking/hiking/trekking (call it what you will) then pack on down to Masons Bay, a 16km-long stretch of ocean-battered beach. Around here the kiwis are so laid back they'll actually walk right up to you an peck your hiking boots. . . . no kidding.
Another option is to hook up with Kiwi Wilderness Walks in Riverton and they'll take you by fishing boat or light plane to Mason Bay Over the next four days you walk, water taxi and sea kayak your way across the island to Halfmoon Bay.
If the idea of a multi day hike to this spot doesn't fit into your schedule, fly to Masons Bay with Southern Air, trek through to Freshwater River (about 4 hours) for the water taxi ride back to Oban with one of the water taxi operators:
Stewart Island Water Taxis, Ph 03-219-1394
Seaview Water Taxis, Ph 219-1014.
Seabuzz Tours, Ph 03-219-1282
Rakiura Adventures, 03-219-1394.
Apart from the water taxis there are a number of cruise operators who will take you fishing, diving, sightseeing - or transport you to walking track points.
Ulva Island Ulva Island with an area of 250 hectares is situated in Paterson Inlet. It is very accessible and is managed as an open sanctuary by the Department of Conservation. It's restored forest and lack of predators make it a safe environment for many rare bird and plant species and is a place where the public may view and enjoy rare birds and native plants at close quarters. Go there with Ron Tindall, a native Stewart Islander with an innate love of this wild part of the planet. Ph 03-219-1216 or with Ulva's Guided Walks.
The sea fishing at Stewart Island is in a class of its own. The big ones of yesteryear elsewhere, are the every day catch down here. Or so they tell me.
It's also very much a place for bush walks. Plunge into the forest and stroll upon a mossy carpet through ferny glades where the only sound in all the world is birdsong and the splash of water in the streams.
Another way of exploring the coastline is sea kayaking. Arrange it with Rakiura Kayaks, Ph 03-219-1368, or Stewart Island Sea Kayak Adventures 03-219-1080.
To explore the land, go for a a ride with the biggest bull-shitter on the island, Sam Sampson. On "Billy The Bus" he'll regale you with tales of island life . . . and blithely tell you "All my lies are true". Been doing it for 20 years so it's a well-rehearsed routine. Ph: 03-219 1269 to book.
Gumboot Theatre is a one-woman half-hour show held right on the waterfront in a tiny 20-seater theatre. 'Lamingtons and Confetti' is an entertaining insight into Stewart Island life.
While you're there you may have a chance to see the Aurora Australis, the southern equivalent of the Northern Lights. But even if they're not on display, bring an ample stock of colour film to catch the wildly coloured sunsets they get this far south.
Getting there
Easiest way is by air with Stewart Island Flights. The other option is the fast catamaran operated Stewart Island Adventures. During the one-hour crossing between Bluff and Stewart Island keep a lookout for wildlife, especially seabirds. Watching mollymawks (albatross) soaring behind the ferry is a fantastic sight.
Riverton
Bit under 40km west of Invercargill is Riverton, probably the closest thing in NZ to a fishing village. Main reason for going there is Beach House Cafe and Bar, 126 Rocks Highway. One of NZ's best chefs tells me it is tops for seafood, especially blue cod - and I implicitly trust her judgement. Blue cod, a South Island speciality, is one of god's gifts to foodies. You simply must try it somewhere.
Invercargill to Balclutha
The coast road through the Catlins Forest from Invercargill to Balclutha is by far the most interesting way to travel from to or from Dunedin. The other option is SH 1 through Gore, but rural Southland, beautifully manicured though it is, is probably nothing new at that stage.
The Catlins road is unsealed for the section through the forest itself . . . but that matters little. You shouldn't be trying to travel fast along here. Allow a day for the journey and stop to see and do the various things along the way.
Before leaving check fuel, oil, water and food - there's a long stretch of road with no shops. Take SH92 out of Invercargill and just after Fortrose, 45km from the city, bear right to follow the Fortrose-Otara road. First place of interest is Slope Point. This is the actual most southerly part of mainland NZ, being 5km further south than Stirling Point at Bluff. There's a turn-off signposted, but the road itself doesn't go as far as the point - do the last stage on foot. If you must.
On reaching Porpoise Bay, 72km from Invercargill, turn right for Curio Bay and the petrified forest.
The floor of the bay is a fossilised kauri and conifer forest that flourished 160m years ago. A huge volcanic eruption covered it in ash, and later the area sank beneath the sea. When it reappeared some millions of years later, the action of the waves cut away the volcanic sandstone to reveal logs and stumps in exactly the positions the eruption left them.
A forest of this age is rare anywhere in the world and it is absolutely protected. Walk down the sign posted track and, at low tide, across the shelf to the right. This is the floor of the forest. The formations are not readily apparent but after a few minutes you'll learn to recognise them.
After this stop return past Porpoise Bay and rejoin SH 92. If you're coming the other way, follow the signs to Porpoise Bay and Curio Bay.
Further along the road, if you've planned your attack right, you can visit Cathedral Caves at Waipati Beach, a series of inter-connected caves ranging from 30 to 50m in height and running up to 100m back into the cliff. The attraction is the acoustics. If you're a singer (or whistler) don't miss it. The turn-off is past Chaslands, about 100km from Invercargill, 71km from Balclutha. Signposted. You can only reach them in the period an hour before and an hour after low tide. It involves a 20min walk down a steep face to Waipati Beach and you'll also need a powerful torch if you intend to penetrate into the caves for any distance.
After climbing Florence Hill about 10km later, look back for a splendid view along the length of Tautuku Bay. After crossing the Maclennan River you'll come to the turnoff to the Purakanui Falls. Best photographed at about 11am on a sunny day.
Just to reinforce the veracity of the above info, a few months back I had an e-mail from one Christine McKenzie, a South Catlins local, who gave it the positive thumbs up:
"Just a quickie to say your virtual tour of the South Catlins passes muster with a local, " she wrote . "It's accurate ('cept you missed out Waipapa with its sealions and the wreck of the Tararua) and colourful. I'll definitely come back and read more on your site, well done. You came up on a search of Fortrose - I was checking out the Scottish Fortrose! "
Gee, ain't it great to be appreciated!!
Bootleg Hooch
OK that's the solitude, the tuatara, and the oysters, but what's the go on the bootleg hooch? Last century this area had a very strong Scottish strain among its settlers. And among the skills they brought was the canny ability to mix barley, water, and peat smoke to brew the wee dram for which Scotland is well known - whisky. Except here in the uncouth Antipodes it was illegal. The township of Hokonui and the hills behind it are famous for their connection with the illegal whisky industry. Indeed the word "Hokonui" probably means bootleg booze to most older New Zealanders, rather than the name of a simple provincial village. But when you pass through said rustic village you might have a look in on the Hokonui Moonshine Museum which celebrates this notorious past.
Fishing
Bio-alert: Thanks to some half-wit fisherman who didn't clean his/her gear before coming here we now have rivers infect with didymo, or rock-snot as it is sometimes called. If you move from one river to another please, please clean your gear thoroughly. For more info go to the MAF website.
The rivers of Southland are famous for their fishing - mostly brown trout. The Mataura, the Oreti and 26 others are lurking locations for serious fish.
A few years back when I walked the Milford Track we had among our party an American who carried rod and reel every metre of the way. At intervals he would go down to the river which course we were following and thrash the water with line and fly. To no result. Walking in sync were a group "freedom walkers" also known as "the smellies" because they were staying in the DOC huts which had no hot showers, unlike our "luxury" lodges with all mod cons.
Among said smellies was a scruffy group who gave this poor Yank hell about his complete inability to catch fish. When we reached Milford and were dining up large at the Milford Hotel we noticed nearby a table of real swells - white ties, tails, ball gowns . . . the whole bit.
One of them, glass of Bollie in one hand cigar in t'other, sauntered over to our table and accosted the hapless fisherman. "You are such a useless bloody fisherman," says The Swell, "that we've arranged for you to go down to some friends in Southland and learn to catch the bloody things."
Turns out the "scruffy smellies" were a group of filthy rich landed gentry from North Canterbury who finally took pity on our American fellow traveller. He was gob-smacked.
In due course he was taken to stay with various Southland farmers who took him to the local rivers and got him in among some seriously big fish. Every two years the same man still comes back to NZ to do some real (reel?) fishing, renewing friendships forged over the years. He still can't get over how complete strangers in a foreign land felt obliged to show a visitor one of the true wonders of the South - trout.
So if you want to follow in his footsteps, have a talk to some of the local fishing guides: People like Daniel Agar (027-223-2007) or Bryan Burgess 03-208-0801 in the Gore district; Geoff Stewart 03-217-7776 or Alan Wilson (03-217-3687) at Southland Fly Fishing Guides (03-217-3687 ) in Invercargill; Terry Woods of Southern Fly Water Trout Tours (03-236-4141) in Winton.
For more information on Southland fishing have a look at the Frontier Fishing Gazette.
Interesting listing of Southland dive spots.
For more information on Southland have a look at the website of Tourism Southland .
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All you need to know about a visit to the place where God set the contrast and colour and man hasn'nt fiddled with the dials.
What, hopefully, you'll get out of this mish-mash of peripatetic ramblings.
Background bumpf on the country.
Visas, customs, immigration, duty free shopping, and getting away from the airport. Bloody important if you don't want to be arrested on arrival.
Moving on . . . by road or rail, by air or by sea.
"nuff said.
What to see, what to do, and why to go there.
Diving, fishing, golf, rafting, sailing, skiing - and more.