Milford Sound and Fiordland
"a
raw, elemental, awe-inspiring landscape"
Dusky
Sound. Photograph by Gilbert van Reenen, Clean Green Images Ltd. Purchase a print
from him or take a photo nature tour.
Milford Sound is one of the most famous of all New Zealand images. Mitre Peak, an all but perfect triangle of a mountain, is an icon for tourism in this country.
I know that it's tired and unoriginal to say that a landscape is awe-inspiring. But wait till you see this . . . there is just no other way to describe it. You will, I promise you - unless you be made of the selfsame stone - stand in gob-smacked awe of these mountains and valleys. They will pour in upon your senses. Overwhelm you. Leave you standing mute and humble. This is indeed a landscape where God set the colour and contrast and man hasn't fiddled with the dials.
In my opinion (my opinions are never humble) the road to Milford Sound is the pre-eminent landscape experience in New Zealand.
The magnitude, the power, the scale of this landscape reveals itself slowly. You start at gentle Lake Te Anau, mountain rimmed on its far side, then rise and fall across Te Anau Downs before the climb into the mountain fastness that guards the sounds, climaxing with the exit from the Homer Tunnel and the descent to Milford through a landscape that reduces the human observer to an insignificant speck of dust. The greatest egos in the world, the riches, the power, the glory of human achievement are scaled to true dimension here. Compared to this landscape they are nothing!
Millions of years old they be, yet these are still young mountains with the brashness and rawness of youth. Carved and shaped by the colossal forces of an ice age or two, but still sheer and massive, granite-grey and formidable, they reduce we living things to the momentary passing irrelevance we really are.
Some years ago I wrote and produced a series of cassette tapes, intended to give the traveller a commentary as they traversed the countryside. On this section of the road a narrative is superfluous, irreverent almost. Instead, I used the music of Beethoven's Ninth Symphony - the Chorale. I felt it was the only thing that could match these mountains for size, and majesty and all those other boggling adjectives people use, none of which is enough. Even though I say it myself, the effect was stunning. If you have the Ninth on tape, bring it with you for this moment.
Te Anau
Te Anau is a surprise for travellers. It's the sort of place that, but for the attraction of Milford Sound, they might elect to miss. But don't make it just a comfort stop on the way to or from Milford. It has many attractions of its own, especially if you value the true wilderness experience.
There's no question, however, that it's main purpose in life is as a gateway to and touring base for the Fiordland Region. There is very little in the way of accommodation at Milford Sound itself. There is a backpacker's hostel and that's it for the public. The hotel there is now used exclusively for Milford Track trekkers and is not open to the public. Thus Te Anau serves as the base camp for exploration.
You can glean a little more info from the Fiordland Promotions Association site.
Another useful information site is Andrew Schofields Fiordland page.
Worth a stop is the Te Anau Wildlife Centre, just out of the township on the road to the airport. You'll see a variety of wildlife, but especially the rare Takahe - a bird long thought to be extinct until a small colony of survivors was found.
Take a lake cruise to Te Anau-au Caves - a rare example of a living cave i.e. one that is still in the process of formation. You board the launch and cruise across Lake Te Anau. On reaching Cavern House you are given a history of the cave, its development and operation. After a short bush walk you are taken through the cave, moving by way of footpaths and small punts past limestone formations, waterfalls and streams to the glow worm grotto.
Sinbad
Cruises. Cruising on the little ship "Manuska" takes you into
some of the more obscure corners of Lake Te Anau. The
Manuska is a 36ft gaff rigged ketch built by
skipper/owner Murray Cardno. Great way to see this
stunning lake. Several trip options.
Manapouri and Doubtful Sound
Manapouri is the more beautiful of the two lakes. Take Real Journeys Doubtful Sound Trip -- it's one of the tourist highlights of NZ, and well worth the extra day. Cruise across Lake Manapouri, take a bus ride down the 2km long access tunnel into a hydro-electric power station 700ft underground, hewn from solid granite beneath the mountains. Then a bus trip over Wilmot Pass before cruising Doubtful Sound. Details at Fiordland Travel.
Lake Manapouri is the womb of the now-powerful NZ green movement. Back in the 60s the government of the day decided to pump up the pressure on the penstocks of the Manapouri power station hidden in the very roots of the mountains themselves.
The power station was a clever idea - instead of letting the overflow water from Lake Manapouri run "uselessly" down the Waiau River to the sea near Invercargill, they carved out a tunnel from the lake to Milford Sound, several hundred feet below the lake's natural level, using the thus-trapped water pressure to drive the turbines. If the lake's level could, on the other hand, be raised, the pressure would be greater and the power output increased.
To do so, however, would ruin the lakeshore. The drowned, dead trees would remain for decades as a monument to "progress". The locals rose up in revolt. "Damn The Dams" was the slogan. A pop song of the same name made the top of the charts. Under withering public pressure the government backed down. But for the protesters came the realisation that the pristine wilderness was badly depleted and if they wanted to stop the rot they had to fight for it. The eco-movement was born.
To me the stunning thing about the trip on Doubtful Sound comes when they turn off the boat's motors and the vessel just lolls in the gentle swells. Despite the fact that there may be a hundred or more people on board, there is utter silence. Silence that implodes on the inner ear. Silence that deafens the brain. And no wonder. With the shutting down of the engine, you are about as far away from anywhere in the world as it's reasonably possible to be without undertaking a major expedition.
Doubtful Sound excursions
If you want one of the best true eco-tourism experiences take time out with Fiordland Ecology Holidays. Aboard the 20m motor sailer Breaksea Girl you can explore Fiordland, Stewart Island and down into the sub Antarctic islands like the Snares, Auckland and Campbell Islands. You could find that your shipmates are research teams or film crews that regularly use the Breaksea Girl as their floating ops base. Snorkelling and diving but definitely no fishing.
Another great seagoing option on Doubtful Sound is to take an overnight cruise on the Fiordland Navigator, the newest of Real Journey’s vessels, purpose built for cruising in the fiords.
Fancy seeing it aboard something smaller in scale and relying on paddle power not diesel power? Then paddle your own kayak around Lake Manapouri or Doubtful Sound, one of the great adventures NZ has to offer. There are several operators to choose from: Adventure Travel Ltd have day and overnight options on Lake Manapouri, including straight kayak rental or organised and guided trips; Kiwi Reel-Rifle Ltd have rental kayaks on Manapouri and Te Anau, and also offer fishing trips and hunting. Ph 03-249-9071; Fiordland Wilderness Experiences have rental or guided trips on Milford Sound, Doubtful Sound, Dusky and Breaksea Sounds, Lake Manapouri and Lake Te Anau Ph 03-249-7700.
Milford
From Te Anau to Milford Sound is one of the great adventure roads in NZ -- possibly the greatest. 119km. Travelling time one way about 2'/2-3hrs. Plan your day to get a cruise on the Sound (more correctly, it's a fiord, not a sound).
Cruising Milford Sound
You can take your choice from a wide variety of ways of exploring this magnificent fiord - launch, kayak, or scuba diving.
Launch: By far the most popular way. There are three companies that run services: Real Journeys, Milford Sound Red Boats and Mitre Peak Cruises. Any is as good as the other - but I'd probably go with Mitre Peak because they're smaller and seem more personal somehow. At peak times it pays to book in advance. Tours leave throughout the day. The lunch time cruises are probably the most popular because they can be fitted into a flying visit from Te Anau or Queenstown and still allow time to make it back to the start point the same day. But if you're not in such a hurry take one of the more leisurely departures.
You can't park close to the cruise wharf, so allow at least 15 min for the walk from the carpark. You can drive out to the wharf to drop passengers, but you can't park there.
For something longer catch an overnight cruise aboard one of the Real Journeys three purpose built cruisers. Venture ashore to explore deserted shorelines and rainforest, kayak among sheltered bays, enjoy a spot of fishing.
Kayak: Take it the leisurely way and kayak the fiord with Milford Sound Sea Kayaks or with Fiordland Wilderness Experiences.
To view the world beneath the waves of the fiord take a trip out to Milford Deep, an underwater observatory that gives you a window to life nine metres beneath the sea in the Piopiotahi Marine Reserve. The cruise companies will get you there and back.
Scuba Diving. But if you want to get up close and personal with the underwater life in Milford go with Tawaki Dive. Ph 03-249-9006.
Milford Track - "The Finest Walk In The World
On 17 October 1888, Quintin Mackinnon discovered the mountain pass that made possible an overland route to Milford Sound. His fellow explorer, Donald Sutherland, developed a tourist route -- the Milford Track -- which quickly earned the description "the finest walk in the world". Thousands of people have traversed the Milford Track, yet as each one reaches the summit of Mackinnon Pass or catches a first glimpse of the lofty Sutherland Falls, the sense of achievement is the same as that enjoyed by those nineteenth century adventurers. Today, the trip is well within the capabilities of anyone who is fit and used to walking. Trampers of all ages have completed the Track with enjoyment. The route itself and the siting of the huts are virtually unchanged, but today's explorers take for granted comforts that would have been unthinkable for Messrs Mackinnon and Sutherland.
The Milford Track Guided Walk is the way to go if you can afford the price. Stay in comfort (hot showers!) and not have to pack anything more than your own personal effects. The number in each party is usually 40. Good meals are provided throughout.
The cheaper option is the so-called Freedom Walking, staying in DOC huts along the way, but you'll have to book early - you can not just stroll in as and when it suits you.
There are also a one-day options with Trips 'n Tramps. At least you get a glimpse of the track - it'll make you thirst for more. More info.
Kepler Track
Ranked as one of the country's "great walks". (There are eight of them). It's a relatively new facility, cut in the late 80s, well prepared and surfaced with gravel. The track is for the most part well graded, but the mountain section needs a reasonable level of fitness. Takes three to four days - though the first section from the control gates to Brod Bay is an excellent day trip.
It's a 67km circuit starting and finishing at the flood control gates at the southern end of Lake Te Anau. Accommodation is at three DOC huts along the way. In the summer season (late Oct to mid-Apr) the huts have a resident manager. They also have running water, gas for cooking, lighting, heating, flush toilets and mattresses on beds. Luxury!!
In winter snow and ice can make the alpine sections of the track impassable.
Hollyford Track
This is a relatively flat track which follows the Hollyford River from the sheer-walled Darran Mountains out to the coast. Operates all year round, including the winter. Its 56km takes four to five days. A popular option is to fly into Martins Bay and walk out. More info.
Operated by DOC, Te Anau, Ph 03-249-7921. Guided tours are also operated by Hollyford Tourist Company.
Routeburn Track
Another of the Great Walk tracks. A 39 km one way track that can be walked in either direction - from The Divide (Milford Road) or Glenorchy.
It can be freedom walked or you can take one of the guided walks with Ultimate Hikes,
Other One Day Walks
Upland Journeys offer a range of one day walks in various parts on Fiordland - Hollyford Valley, Key Summit, Lake Marian and the Gertrude Saddle.
Other activities
Fishing
Fiordland and neighbouring Southland are world renowned fishing territory. But a guide is a major advantage, here's a few options:
Fish 'n' Trips. (Clever name, eh?). Contact Ian Murray Ph 03-249-7656.
Fish Fiordland Contact: Mike Molineux, 03-249-8070
Fiordland Guides Ltd, operating from Fiordland Lodge, a luxury lodge on the Te Anau/Milford Road.
Fiordland Expeditions specialises in sea trips.
Ron Todd Trout Safaris, Ph 03-249-8187. Email: roba@teanau.co.nz
Horse trekking
High Ride Adventures, Wilderness Road, Te Anau, 03-249-8591
Flightseeing
If Fiordland is stunning from the ground - you should see it from the air. One of my most enduring memories of this region was the day I zoomed up the Eglinton River at treetop height in a chopper flown by one of the local legends, Bill Black, of South West Helicopters. This is a guy with 28,000 hours (!!!) of helicopter flying and medals for bravery for some of the death-defying rescues he's pulled off.
There are a number of operators who'll give you a view from above:
There are also floatplane flightseeing adventures operated off Lake Te Anau by Waterwings Airways Ph 03-249-7405. Email: waterwings@teanau.co.nz
Te Anau to Queenstown
One your way from one place to t'other catch the Kingston Flyer for a taste of travel the way it usta be. The Flyer is a vintage steam train -- famous in its time as one of the first locos in the world to develop 100 horsepower per 10001bs of engine weight. In the season (Sep - mid-May) The 20min trips leave Kingston for Fairlight at 10, 1.30 and 3.45. Return from Fairlight is at 11, 2.30 and 4.45. Take it as a one-way or a return trip. Fairlight is a tiny "location" between Garston and Kingston.
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All you need to know about a visit to the place where God set the contrast and colour and man hasn'nt fiddled with the dials.
What, hopefully, you'll get out of this mish-mash of peripatetic ramblings.
Background bumpf on the country.
Visas, customs, immigration, duty free shopping, and getting away from the airport. Bloody important if you don't want to be arrested on arrival.
Moving on . . . by road or rail, by air or by sea.
"nuff said.
What to see, what to do, and why to go there.
Diving, fishing, golf, rafting, sailing, skiing - and more.