Diving in New Zealand

NZ diving is among the best in the world. Doesn't that sound like I'm just blowing another boast for the place?

So don't take my word for it.

Listen to a writer for US Skin Diver Magazine:

"I am convinced that NZ waters are among the few virgin wonders left in diving today. The wealth and density of marine life is exciting and the degree of difference relative to the Carribean, Red Sea or South Pacific is inspiring."

Paul Tzimoulis, editor-publisher of "Skindiver", explored further this matter of the different nature of NZ diving. He said: "There is no other place on earth quite like New Zealand, and no other type of diving to which it can be compared. . . The underwater attractions and marine life are extraordinary by American standards. It is a type of diving that can only be described as an adventure experience".

What, then, is so different about diving in these waters as compared with other places? NZ lies exactly halfway between the equator and the south pole - indeed lat. 45 deg S. passes through Central Otago.

The water and weather are both, therefore, temperate. Benign, even. Below, there's a crazy mixed-up muddled-up marine life world where coral reef crinoids exist with forest of kelp, volcanic rock formations are covered with hard corals and seafans. The fish themselves are totally different to any other Pacific area.

The principal dive area is north of Auckland, especially the Bay of Islands and the Poor Knights Islands. But there are other areas. Goat Island, The Cavalli Islands, Hen and Chicken Islands, Mokohinau Island, Mercury Islands, Alderman Islands, Mayor Island. Further off-shore is Great Barrier Island, beyond the reach of the day boats. In the south, Marlborough Sounds have their adherents, and they tell me that the best diving in NZ is actually in Fiordland . . . but that's probably just the locals making claims the size of some of their fiords. Stewart Island, too, though a long way south is acquiring a reputation for itself among the more adventurous divers.

Bay Of Islands

The 81 sq miles bounded by Paihia, Piercy Rock (the one with the hole in it), and Nine Pin Rock is the pick of the area, with a wide variety of dive terrain suitable for all kinds of diving and all levels of skill.

In the inner bay, depths range from 7m to 15m with a lot of shallow reefs harbouring a teem of fish life, many species of which can be hand fed. Visibility is 10-25m.

The pick of the dive zones however, are on the outer edge of the bay - out near The Dog, Piercy Island, The Sisters and Bird Rock. Out here the underwater cliffs drop away vertically, covered with a patchwork robe of brightly coloured sponges, crinoids, anemones, and zoanthids.

It's best to book and in summer its essential.

Cavalli Islands

By sea 5km from Matauri Bay. Tokananohia Reef - bluefish. Takahe Reef - 8m to top of reef, drop-off to 45+m. Very exposed offshore site with currents. Experienced scuba diving only. Spectacular fish life. Sharks, whales, barracuda. Panak Island - reef north of island. Motutakapu Island - reef runs NW to Takaroto Rock. Outer islands - extensive fish life.

Frenchmans reef - shallow reef with central tunnel. Great night diving. Schooling fish, good photography.

But probably the most spectacular feature is the wreck dive to the Rainbow Warrior. It's 22 to 27m down on a sandy bottom in clear water. 9km boat ride from a good beach launch site.

The Rainbow Warrior, a Greenpeace ship, was sunk in Auckland harbour by French government terrorists . . . yes government terrorist; the stupid French government of the day thought they could send a bunch of professional killers to this country and commit an act of international terrorism that would rank with the best of al Qaeda or Hizbollah. One man died in the explosion. Two of the agents were caught and convicted, and to what should be its eternal shame France welcomed them home as heroes on their release.

The ship was towed to the Bay of Islands and sent to final rest. Accessible to all skill levels.

Goat Island

Over 30 years ago the idea of a "no touch, no take" protected area met with some hostility from fishermen. But the spectacular recovery of fish stocks in what was a sadly depleted area not only converted the unbelievers but provide us with a window on the past, a view of the former richness of much of the coast. The reserve is the base for the University of Auckland Marine Laboratory.

The place just teems with fish life. You don't have to go in the water . . . they just swarm around your feet as you paddle in the shallows. The reserve is positioned on a "corner" of the coast, and thus is frequented by a wide variety of pelagic fish: kahawai, kingfish, koheru, silver drummer, and some XXL snapper. Then there's the blue cod, the knockabout characters on stage. Large mouths, big goggly eyes, and they're right in ya face, babe!

South side depths to 10m, north side to 9m. among a variety of habitats, from rocky shores exposed at low tide to deep reefs, underwater cliffs, canyons and sandflats. Each habitat harbours its own creatures from seaweed forests in the pulsating light zone to deeper waters where clinging animals like sea squirts, anemones, sponges and shellfish are found. The crayfish know they are protected, the snapper play in your bubbles.

In deep water please be careful not to break off small fragile animals such as gorgonian fans, lace corals, and sponges - some of which are hundreds of years old.

Goat Island is 45 minutes drive north of Auckland, just north of Leigh.

Seafriends Marine Centre can provide you with all the underwater gear, and if you wish, take you on guided dives. Click here for a very full description of the area. They also operate a cafe there. Another option is to dive or kayak with Goat Island Dive.

Poor Knights Islands

Set off the Northland coast, 22km out and 40km southeast of Cape Brett, are what is usually claimed as the ultimate NZ dive experience . . . the Poor Knights Islands. This particularly beautiful seas area has been set aside as a marine reserve, thus preserving its unique environment.

Unique? Betcha wetsuit onnit. here is where tropical and temperate life exist side-by-side in a strange and wonderful marine world.

Visibility in the best of the dive season is superb, usually in the 30m to 50m range but reaching 70m . Water temperatures range from a mid-winter 62deg F to a mid-summer 71deg F.

The steep cliffs which fringe the islands plummet to 100m in places before reaching a sandy sea floor. Broken by caves, archways and fissures, they provide many different nooks and crannies for sea life over a wide range of depths. Kelp forests, sponge gardens and gorgonia fields are inhabited by myriad fish, shellfish, urchins and anemones with black coral in deeper waters. Nursery Cave and some of the shallower parts on South Harbour are the best places for novice divers. Experienced divers can find spectacular and challenging dives all around the islands. Red Baron Arches has a wide range of of fauna and flora, rock formations.

Probably the best known and most popular dive location is the Northern Arch, a giant stone archway 18m high and passing completely through the end of a peninsular. Underwater it is 6m to 12m wide and down to 40m or more in depth. Invariably it teems with life, with anything up to 5000 fish milling around. The greatest attraction is a school of pink maomao, making a colourful contrast with their near relatives, the blue maomao as well as the gold of the snapper, yellow-striped mado, the silver-blue of the kingfish and red pigfish.

With a bevy of nooks and crannies and coves as options, the weather seldom manages to prevent diving here . . . there's always shelter somewhere.

Please take care not to damage underwater formations and please, no souvenir hunting, eh?

Dive or just cruise it with Dive!Tutukaka. Ph 09-434-3867.

Three Kings Islands

A group of 13 islands (surrounded by many islets and rocks) 64km north-west of Cape Reinga, the northernmost tip of NZ. Three Kings Islands are for the diver with a thirst for adventure. Rich in marine and bird life you'll find many exotic dive sites. Here the tide rips are fast and furious as the Pacific Ocean rushes around the top of NZ to meet the Tasman Sea.Hapuka and bass are easily seen by divers. Novice divers should gain the experience of at least 30 to 40m dives before attempting a Three Kings dive trip.

Kapiti Island Marine Reserve

By sea 7km from Paraparaumu. Formally established in 1992, the reserve's underwater scenery is generally regarded as some of the finest in the Wellington region. Good variety for photography. Those with no more than a mask and snorkel could explore the rocks close to the shore of the island. The diving is, however, most rewarding on the western side and northern end of the island. There you'll find features like the Hole-In-The-Wall, a rock archway. Other good areas include Tokahaki Reef, The Boulder Bank, Rangatira Point, Passage Rocks, Takaririmongo Point, West Point, Kaiwharawhara, Onepooto and Arapawaiti. It is unusual to find the three common marine habitats in the Marlborough Sounds-Wellington region in such a confined area.

The boulder bottom, sheltered reef and and sand bottom habitats are home to a rich variety of marine life. Orange and yellow sponges, some very rare, colour the reef and luxuriant sewed beds feed kina and paua. Starfish, corals, anemones, octopus and reef fish such as butterfish, blue cod, red mullet are also local residents. Ocean fish to visit include blue moki and kingfish. On occasions rare and sub tropical fish are seen - such as spotted black groper, drumfish and magpie perch.

Seasons

Key to a successful diving trip to NZ is to pick the right time of year. In late spring the water clouds out because of a planktonic bloom which turns the water milky-green from October to December. But in January to May the rich blue of the South Equatorial Current moves in. The best month is April. If you are planning a visit from overseas, that's the time - the accommodation is easier to get, the water and the weather in the north is still warm and settled.

Filling stations are plentiful, most have rental equipment and can arrange trips locally. You will require a diver's identity certificate.

You can keep in touch with the NZ dive scene through the Dive New Zealand site. For other information contact the NZ Underwater Association, Box 875, Auckland.

Operators

The following are some NZ diving operators. The descriptions are provided by the operators themselves.

Dive Tutukaka, Northland. Four purpose designed boats, professional crews, and full equipment hire support the premier charter operator servicing the Poor Knights Islands, out of Tutukaka, the dive capital of New Zealand. Ph 09-434-3867.

Knight Diver Tours Ltd, Northland. Discover the joy of diving the Poor Knights with Kevin Butler and experience the best the knights have to offer by diving with the diver who knows it best. With 25 years experience diving there. Ph 09-436-2584.

A to Z Diving, Northland. New Zealand's most northerly PADI dive school, guiding service and dive retailer. Professional PADI training from one day Discovery to full Dive Master courses, conducted in either German or English. Equipment hire and air fills also available. All forms of guiding (the choice is yours) on the beautiful Peninsula and the famous Rainbow Warrior. Ph 09-408-7077.

The Dive Connection, Northland. Northlands premiere retail outlet for diving the World renowned Poor Knights Islands. Ph 09-430-0818.

Leigh House, Northland. Dive trips to Goat Island Marine Reserve. Feed the friendly fish. Or dive the unspoiled waters of Little Barrier Island and Great Barrier Island. On board a new 11 metre, fast launch, modern and comfortable. Top crew. Then return to Leigh House and relax in our comfortable accommodation. Ph 09-422-6457. Email shadze@xtra.co.nz.

Tutukaka Charters, Northland. Tutukaka Charters operate dive boats to the famous Poor Knights Islands. Ph 09-434-3818.

Lady Jess Charters, Northland. Lady Jess' owner/skipper, Pete Saul, is a marine researcher who knows the North East coast - above and below the water - inside out. His vessel is a well cared for classic -clean, comfortable and well equipped with a dive compressor, navigational and fish finding equipment. Pete is an accomplished cook and specialises in longer trips of around a week, where he has the time to give his guests a real appreciation of the unique flora and fauna of his area. Ph 09-434-3758.

Magic Charters, Whangarei. Day fishing and dive charters in the Whangarei, Bream Bay to Cape Brett, Bay of Islands & Mokihinau areas. Dive Poor Knight Islands & shipwrecks Tui & Waikato. Game fishing out of Tutukaka from a fast 7.3m sport fishing boat. Ph 025-364-233.

Goat Island Scuba Safaris, Northland. We offer Diving Charters (just one hour North of Auckland) to some of the most beautiful, and untouched locations in New Zealand including: Little Barrier, Horn Rock, Kawau Island, Leigh Reef and Goat Island Marine Reserve. Ph 09-422-6708.

Dive Shack Goat Island, Northland. Dive centre catering for all a divers needs. Plus full dive facilities including snorkel and scuba hire, dive bottle fills, Dive courses and charters to popular sites including Kawau Island, Little Barrier, Simpson's rock, Leigh reef, and Goat Island. Ph 021-399-351.

Extreme RnR Fish n Dive Ltd, Northland. Wayne Radford is renowned for his knowledge and experience fishing the Mokohinau Islands group. RnR operates from Mangawhai Heads, 1 1/2 hrs north of Auckland. Fishing locations: Coastal, Hen & Chickens Islands, Mokohinau Islands, Little Barrier and Great Barrier Island. RnR is a 10.5m. Genesis Launch, MSA surveyed. Cruising speed is 18-20 knots, ideal for 4-6 anglers, comfortably sleeping 4. Ph 09-423-7674.

Goat Island Dive, Northland. You can enjoy New Zealand's 'Coastal Aquarium' with us, scuba dive/snorkel and/or kayak from the safe Goat Island Marine Reserve beach, an attraction for all the family, or for the more adventureous dive the Leigh coastline and outer islands. At our PADI Resort we have experienced instructors on site for lessons. Ph 09-422-6925.

Dive HQ, Auckland. Get into diving and dive New Zealand over with Dive HQ. We cater for all levels of diving from recreational to career development programmes.Try our Dive Adventures, it's a great day out, we'll take you diving, show you some superb underwater scenery without even having to complete a course. Your safety and fun is our paramount concern.Located in fourteen locations around New Zealand from Whangarei to Queenstown. Ph 09-525-8090.

Infinity Charters, Coromandel Peninsular. A 12 metre powercat with room for up to 18 day passengers or 9 overnighters, Infinity runs out of picturesque Whitianga, giving easy access to Great Barrier, The Mercurys, Mayor Island and the secluded bays of Coromandel Peninsula. Ph 07-866-5936.

Eastern Pacific Charters, Bay of Plenty. Skylla is a charter boat based in Tauranga. With plenty of deck space and room for 12 daytrippers and overnight accommodation for 6, she provides a thoroughly professional service out of Auckland, Whangamata or Tauranga. Ph 078-236-403.

Cascade Charters, Bay of Plenty. Cascade is a beautifully appointed 17 metre launch with a cruising speed of 16 knots and plenty of room for 9 overnight guests or 16 day passengers.With a huge cockpit, fullsized shower and toilet, gear holds, a dive compressor, on deck BBQ and a big, powerful inflatable tender, she is just about the ideal vessel for diving any of the bays legendary sites. Ph 021-227-2233.

Diveworks Charters, Bay of Plenty. Snorkle or scuba dive the crystal clear waters around the active marine volcano, White Island, or the inshore islands of Whale and the Rurimas in the Eastern Bay of Plenty. View or photograph the splendid fish species and awe inspiring geographical features or gather crayfish (lobster) or fat scallops.Our superfast, quiet diveboat will whisk you to White Island in an hour and home again for a comfortable night's rest. Ph 07-308-5896.

Baker Marine Charters, Bay of Plenty. Scenic or crayfish diving near NZ's famous active volcano, White Island, in the Bay Of Plenty with John "Tuna" Baker aboard the M.V. "Ma Cherie", who knows all the hot spots. This fascinating place is brushed by the warm waters of an offshore current and offers exciting dives from pinnacles with 150 metre drop offs to cruisy reef dives. Ph 07-307-0015.

Dive White, Bay of Plenty. Dive White is a once in a lifetime opportunity to dive in the location of an active marine volcano (White Island). On the 49km boat ride to the Island, whales and dolphins are often seen. Ph 07-307-0714.

Eco Divers, Bay of Plenty. Eco Divers is a PADI Dive and snorkeling centre specialising in Eco-friendly marine encounters. You can participate in a one day scuba experience, a snorkeling tour or jump on one of our two boats that depart daily for half and full day dive trips. Ph 07-572-2784.

Tauranga Marine Charters, Bay of Plenty. We take the largest dive club in New Zealand out approx once a month for a two dive trip and a couple of other trips are two days, staying on Motiti Island. Visitors are most welcome to join the trips. Or organise your own trip and charter the boat for your group. Ph 07-552-6283. Email tmc@xtra.co.nz.

Pacific Invader Charters, Gisborne. This well proven 15 metre sportfisher is handily placed to take day parties of up to 10 or 8 liveaboards on diving trips up or down the renowned East Coast of the North Island. Ph 06-867-8313.

Adventure Dive, Napier. We offer an escape from the routine through our Adventure Dive store in Napier.We can assist you with all your diving needs from dive training through to dive gear sales. Jump aboard our 12 Mtr charter boat "Adrenalin" for a dive or maybe enjoy one of our evening cruises. We also offer full and half day fishing charters. Ph 06-843-5148.

Porangahau Lodge, Wairarapa. Boating Dive Trips to Porangahau or Blackhead Point: $85 hr for up to 6 divers.One dive usually works out at $30 per diver and two dives $45 per diver.Crayfish galore!
Stay at Porangahau Lodge and experience relaxed diving and fishing the way it should be. With Te Angi Angi Marine Reserve nearby we offer Reserve Tours at $35 per hour for up to four people. Ph 06-855-5386.

Pamir Charters, Wellington. Pamir is a big strong converted commercial fishing boat built for Cook Strait conditions and equipped with the traditional diesel stove heating and cooking, full sized hot shower and a convivial and comfortable saloon. Ph 04-528-9901.

Affinity Charters Limited, Marlborough. Dive in the Marlborough Sounds, depart from either Picton or Havelock. Explore the wreck of the Mikhail Lermontov. Other great dive sites are D'urville Island, The Brothers, Chetwode Islands, Stephens Island, Port Gore and many places around the coast line. Gather crayfish and scallops in season. Ph 03-574-2180.

Divers World, Marlborough. We offer diving trips to a number of unique destinations. Dive on one of the BIGGEST diveable cruise shipwrecks in the world, the Mikhail Lermontov which sank while cruising off the South Island coast in 1986. Our prices are hard to beat!

Elusive Charters, Marlborough. Elusive is a 14 metre aluminium charter boat with a huge dive platform, compressor and hire scuba gear available. Based at Bulwer Lodge, right at the entrance to Pelorus Sound, she is within easy reach of Havelock for pickups. Ph 03-576-5285.

Dive Inn Nelson, Nelson. Aquatic Adventures to suit all levels. We live to show you the new and exciting world that awaits you underwater. Learn to dive with us and we'll open the door on the most safe, serious fun you've ever had. Ph 03-545-8549.

Dive Kaikoura, Kaikoura. Set against the backdrop of the Kaikoura ranges, the undersea world of Kaikoura beholds a vast array of wonderful and unique marine creatures from the smallest invertebrate through to the giant sperm whales. Kelp forests grow atop the rocky limestone reefs which are home to many different species of fish life, sponges, sea stars and of course the crayfish. 0800-SCUBA DIVE (728-223).0

Tawaki Dive, Fiordland. For the complete Milford Sound experience, join us on a journey above and below the water to discover the special marine life that Fiordland has to offer. In this most unique of environments, century-old black coral colonies live at depths of only 15m. Ph 03-249-9006.

Talisker Charters, Southland. Talisker Charters offers live aboard dive charters for 3 couples in double cabins or for up to 10 on a share cabin basis around Stewart Island, Fiordland and the Sub Antarctic Islands. Ph 03-219-1151.

Boonari Charters, Stewart Island. Boonari Likoo (aboriginal for "big canoe") is a true "Go anywhere" vessel, and carries full certification for visiting NZ's sub-antarctic islands as well as a qualified divemaster, oxygen and fulfilling all the requirements of the NZUA's dive boat program. Sixty feet long, with a 20 foot beam, she is an exceptionally sea-kindly long range vessel with a huge amount of space available for gear and supplies or groups of up to 36 day passengers. Expeditions arranged anywhere in New Zealand's southern waters. Skipper Len Lind's has fished the south for 30 years and knows the Southern waters better than his own back yard. Ph 03-219-1258.

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Home Page

All you need to know about a visit to the place where God set the contrast and colour and man hasn'nt fiddled with the dials.

Introduction

What, hopefully, you'll get out of this mish-mash of peripatetic ramblings.

General Information

Background bumpf on the country.

Getting In

Visas, customs, immigration, duty free shopping, and getting away from the airport. Bloody important if you don't want to be arrested on arrival.

Getting Around

Moving on . . . by road or rail, by air or by sea.

Accommodation

"nuff said.